Citizen Canine Dog Forum

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This health and wellness article is the full version of "Twelve Steps to Preventing Injuries" featured in Citizen Canine's Spring 2009 edition of "The Scoop".

Twelve Steps to Preventing Injuries
Twelve Steps for Preventing Injury in the Canine Companion and Athlete
Dr. Glynis Newman, DMV

There is a rule of thumb that for every day your canine friend is inactive from an injury, it takes three days to get back into condition. This recovery time is of course, generally longer in senior dogs. So it is important to find ways to reduce the chance of an injury occurring in the first place, don’t you think?

Here are twelve ways to prevent or reduce the chance, of your canine companion or canine athlete getting injured at home, at the park or in the sporting event.

• Let puppies be puppies
• Prepare for the senior days
• Keep the tail and dewclaws
• Delay spaying and neutering if possible
• Teach your dog to “heel”
• Suit your dog’s “job” and lifestyle to its conformation
• Provide good nutrition
• Maintain a lean body condition
• Strive for fitness and conditioning
• See a Certified Veterinary Chiropractor and Massage Therapist regularly
• See your Veterinarian annually for a Wellness Examination
• Never say “too old”
Two golden rules: “Motion is lotion for the joints” and “If you don’t use it, you’ll lose it”

1. Let puppies be puppies

• Puppies are like sponges when it comes to learning…. but they also need “puppy” time to mature physically, emotionally and socially…restrict training times to short sessions of 5-10 minutes.

• Generally, consider that your puppy is still growing for the first year of its life. To allow for this growth, bones and cartilage are relatively soft and susceptible to trauma and stress. Cartilage, especially, has limited regenerative capability and it can be damaged by excessive exercise contributing to conditions such as osteochondrosis dessicans (OCD). Dogs with a predisposition to genetic conditions such as hip or elbow dysplasia are at a higher risk for lasting and more severe damage due to excessive exercise.

• Go ahead and introduce your puppy to some of the skills and tools of their future trade, whether it be as an obedient companion or as a competitive athlete…but conditioning exercises and serious physical exertion should not start until after your dog’s growth plates have closed…approximately 10 months of age in the smaller breeds and 14 months in the larger breeds.

• On the other hand, don’t over “protect” your puppy against exercise. Proper bone and joint development, and proprioception/balance require a certain amount of activity and “stress” on musculoskeletal tissues.

• Bottom line: Practice moderation and be patient for your puppy to grow into its body!

2. Prepare for the Senior days

• Learn how to keep your canine friend’s nails trimmed properly and perform this necessary grooming activity regularly from 8 weeks of age throughout your dog’s life. If nails/claws are allowed to grow long, they will prevent your dog’s bodyweight from being carried squarely on the pads of the paw as it is should be. Instead, long nails cause the body weight to be shifted to the back of the paw and this puts abnormal stress on every joint of the limb leading to injury and osteoarthritis. In addition, your dog will have poor traction and be more likely to slip and injure him/her self.

• It’s easier to teach a young dog new tricks!

• As much as none of us wants to consider this fact, one day our puppy will be a “senior” companion. We will do everything we can to prevent injury over the years and the onset of osteoarthritis, but recent studies have shown that 20% of dogs over the age of 1 year already have some degree of osteoarthritis and more than 80% of dogs over the age of 5 years (and over 20 kg) have osteoarthritis! The arthritis, muscle atrophy and diminished balance of an older dog results in decreased mobility and increased chance of injury. So teach your young dog a few things that will be useful later on in the senior years. Things like:
- being handled and massaged even on sensitive areas like the feet;
- tolerating boots for traction;
- walking up and down a ramp for access into and out of the car (or onto and off of the couch!!);
- stretching and mobility exercises such as “through-the-legs” weaves, sit-to-stands, backwards walking, and the “butt dance”;
- taking medications without “bribes” that are often fattening or upsetting to the older gastrointestinal tract;
- how to sit on a low stool as well as squarely on the floor.

3. Keep the tail and dewclaws

• Unless you intend to show your dog for conformation, consider that the tail and dewclaws might be there for a reason…or two!

• Dewclaws are more commonly found on the forepaws but occasionally are on the back paws as well. There are 5 tendons that attach the dewclaws to the muscles of the leg. Although dewclaws are considered by some to be a non-functioning vestigial first finger/toe, they are actually important for gripping the ground and providing traction, thus preventing unnecessary torque on the limb, especially when turning in the faster gaits. It is possible that removing the dewclaws will cause biomechanical stress to be transmitted further up the leg resulting in injury and increased chance of arthritis to the carpus, elbow, shoulder, or even the back.

• Tails are important for assistance with turning and balance especially in the canine athlete, and in the swimming dog. It has been suggested that tail docking can lead to stress on the pelvis, hind legs and the back especially in the canine athlete.

4. Delay spaying and neutering if possible

• There are advantages to early spaying and neutering, both medically and behaviourally.. However, more and more research is pointing out that there may be disadvantages to early spaying and neutering medically, behaviourally and certainly physically.

• Recent studies have shown that bitches and dogs spayed or neutered at less than one year of age grow significantly taller than those “altered” at more than one year of age The sex hormones along with other growth hormones normally present in an unaltered dog promote the closure of the growth plates at puberty. In the absence of these hormones, growth plate closure is delayed, allowing abnormal growth and consequent alterations to body proportions, and lengths of certain bones relative to others affecting limb angulations. These changes in conformation can predispose a dog to abnormal stresses on the limbs and spine and hence to injury and early onset of osteoarthritis.

• In addition, sex hormones are critical for achieving optimum bone density and some believe this is why one study found spayed and neutered dogs had a higher incidence of cranial cruciate rupture and another showed that dogs altered before 51/2 months had a significantly higher incidence of hip dysplasia.

• One has to weigh the advantages and disadvantages of early (at 6 months) or later, versus no spaying/neutering. Presently, I am in agreement with several of my colleagues (notably Dr Christine Zink) that owners of canine athletes should consider postponing spaying/neutering until 12 and 14 months of age for small and larger breeds respectively.

5. Teach your dog to “heel”

• There is no “quick fix” for the dog that won’t walk nicely at your side. It takes training and patience, preferably at a young age. Harnesses and halters that are meant to provide more control for the “headstrong” or disobedient dog, master their control by impeding your dog’s natural forward mobility. After a while, these control mechanisms can cause injury by stifling your dog’s natural gait. Harnesses are notorious for placing presure on the biceps tendons and causing a biceps tenosynovitis which can be very difficult and lengthy to heal. Halters cause an abnormal amount of ventroflexion of the cervical spine and can lead to neck injury.

• Pinch collars, when used correctly are great “training” aids….but ultimately training your dog to be obedient at your side is the best way to control your dog without injury.

6. Suit your dog’s “job” and lifestyle to its conformation

• Different breeds for different jobs. Before deciding what your dog’s job in life will be whether it be agility, jogging companion, obedience, or couch potato, objectively consider your dog’s breed characteristics. It’s not realistic to think that a Dachshund could compete against a Greyhound for speed, nor is it realistic to think that a Great Dane could compete against a Border Collie for agility…or for that matter, that an Irish setter would likely be a suitable lap dog or couch potato Different breeds have been “bred” for different jobs and their genetic makeup somewhat pre-determines what they are suited for.

• In addition, individual variation within a breed needs to be considered. So, before deciding that your Border Collie is going to compete at the National Level in Agility, evaluate your dog’s personal structure. For example, a dog with more angulation in the hind legs will have a faster ground speed but will find it harder to turn sharply, have less accurate sits and will be slower at lying down and getting up, and a dog with little shoulder layback will have less area for muscle development and less ground speed, less accurate turns and sits.

• To a certain extent proper conditioning and appropriate modifications in training can provide significant compensation for structural handicaps, but be realistic with your expectations of “who” your dog will be and “what” it might achieve in its life.

7. Provide good nutrition

• Everyone knows how important good nutrition is to health and well being….but not everyone knows what good nutrition is. Some foods are very tasty to our canine companion, but that doesn’t mean they are nutritious. Some of the more popular dog foods are like the foods served in some of our human fast food establishments….full of fat and artificial flavours and colours.

• Puppies need puppy food that is specially formulated to contain all of the necessary calories and nutrition for optimum growth in portions small enough to fit into a puppy sized tummy.

• Puppies need a relatively high protein diet but they do not need “over nutrition” i.e excess energy (calories). Over nutrition causes accelerated growth contributing to skeletal abnormalities such as hip dysplasia, OCD and elbow dysplasia, and decreased bone density resulting in structurally weaker bones.

• If you are feeding a good diet, there is no need to supplement additional vitamins and minerals. Too much calcium in a young dog’s diet can contribute to delayed maturation of cartilage and skeletal abnormalities such as OCD. Excess calcium can also lead to zinc deficiency and zinc excess can lead to copper and iron deficiencies; vitamin D supplements can lead to altered calcium uptake by the body; vitamin A supplements can cause bone defects; and vitamin C excess can lead to calcium oxalate crystals in the urine! So don’t play with supplements for your dog without veterinary consultation first!

• Remember that dogs are omnivores, not carnivores like cats and consequently, they need less protein and more fats and carbohydrates than their feline friends. If you are considering a raw meat diet, or for that matter any new diet, do lots of research, consult with your veterinarian, consider the pros and cons and make an educated decision/choice rather than one based on fad.

8. Maintain a lean body condition

• Your dog doesn’t have to be obese to be overweight. Even a pound or two can make the difference between being overweight and a healthy lean. It is lean that we should strive for in our canine’s body condition.

• Keeping your canine companion in a lean body condition is critical from the minute you get him or her as a puppy, through its adolescent and adult years and right through its “golden age”.

• Excess weight increases the stresses on your dog’s musculoskeletal system potentially leading to injury.

• Excess weight has also been proven to predispose your dog to early osteoarthritis and decreased longevity.

• As a rule of thumb, you should be able to feel your dog’s ribs and vertebrae as if there was a T-shirt covering them. If it feels like your dog is wearing a sweater….likely, your dog is overweight!

• Look for that “hourglass” appearance when looking down on your dog….you should be able to tell where the chest slims to the waist and then widens again to the hips.

• An overweight body condition can be due to too many calories, too little activity, an unbalanced diet, or disease such as hypothyroidism or diabetes mellitus. Check with your veterinarian before putting your dog on a “diet” or decreasing its food intake by more than 10%.

• The most common cause of “extra” pounds on your dog’s body is the “extra” food that you provide! Cut treats in half and only give them when necessary, and cut out the “human” food extras.

• Another common cause of excessive body condition is feeding more at mealtime than is required for your dog’s maintenance. When the directions say 1 cup of kibble, it means an eight ounce cup…not a coffee mug!

• Seek veterinary help if your dog is very overweight and you have cut out treats and excess food…sometimes it’s necessary to put them on a therapeutic reducing diet and an exercise program…like Jenny Craig’s for dogs!

9. Strive for fitness and conditioning

• Conditioning is essential to injury prevention. The dogs most at risk for injury are the “Weekend Warriors” – those dogs that don’t do much through the week when their owner is at work, and then fly through the air chasing a ball or Frisbee on the weekends.

• Just throwing the ball or Frisbee for your dog does not constitute “conditioning”. In fact, retrieving has a high potential for injury. Conditioning means “developing a state of health, readiness, or physical fitness” such as is achieved through a regular and suitable exercise program.

• An exercise program should start gradually and should be consistent. It should also provide variety and progress towards a goal.

• When developing an exercise program for your dog, it is not only important to build limb muscles for strength and endurance. It is also very important to exercise your dog’s core muscles for agility and balance, as these are the muscles that will help most to prevent injury.

• Cross training including controlled hill work, cavalettis, weave poles and interval work is the best way to achieve an overall fitness of all muscles.

• Stretching is another part of a conditioning program. Generally, stretches should not be done on “cold” muscles, so take your dog for a brisk walk or trot before you do stretching exercises, and make sure you are doing the stretches properly….you can cause an injury easily by stretching your dog the wrong way!

• Warming up and cooling down are also very important parts of any conditioning program. Warming up allows improved performance, reduced risk of injury and less severe injury. Cooling down allows your dog to return to a “maintenance” state and dissipate heat after exercise. It allows muscles to stretch out after the work of exercise and thereby reduces stiffness later on.

• Get help from your veterinarian, animal physical therapist or someone who has recognized experience with canine anatomy, physiology and biomechanics to help you develop the right conditioning program for your individual dog. Not all exercises are right for all dogs and the wrong ones can make a little problem a big injury!

10. See a Certified Veterinary Chiropractor and Massage Therapist regularly

• Chiropractic treatment focuses on the role of the spinal column in biomechanics and movement, and the intimate relationship between the spinal column and the nervous system. The bones of the spine (vertebrae), the pelvis and the limbs are maintained in a specific alignment in a healthy animal. When even a subtle change in that alignment occurs, it can affect local nerves which need to be in constant communication with the central nervous system and brain to carry out normal body function Muscles, joints and even organs, glands and hence body functions can thus be hampered. By correcting the misalignment through a chiropractic adjustment, we can return the nervous system input and blood flow to more normal function, thus improving hormone and neurotransmitter levels that directly affect the organs and glands, skin and joints……thus helping to reduce the chance of injury.

• Massage maintains wellness and helps to prevent injury by improving blood (and hence nutrient and oxygenation) circulation to tissues and joints; enhancing the flow of lymph away from tissue providing improved elimination of waste products; breaking down fibrous tissue and adhesions thus increasing range of motion; loosening and stretching contracted tendons; stimulating peripheral nerves and inducing relaxation; and stimulating the release of endorphins thus increasing well being.

• Make sure you check into the credentials of any person claiming to be an animal chiropractor or massage therapist before you put your canine friend into their hands.

11. See your Veterinarian annually for a Wellness Examination

• It’s a good idea to have an annual wellness exam performed by your veterinarian at least once every year and more frequently if there is underlying disease or your dog is getting up in age. Your veterinarian can assess your dog’s eyes, ears, cardiac health and its musculoskeletal system.

• There are many diseases that can affect your dog’s cardiovascular, neurological, endocrine or musculoskeletal system that could lead to injury. Did you know that hypothyroidism and Addisons can predispose your dog to injury of the cranial cruciate ligament? Routine blood tests can discover disease that you can’t see outwardly.

• You should also have your dog’s hips radiographed at a young age to discover hip dysplasia which can predispose to early osteoarthritis.

• Some breeds should also have their elbows radiographed looking for potential dysplasia.

• As your dog ages, having spinal radiographs will help diagnose osteoarthritis and lead to early treatment to slow it’s progress and minimize injury.

• Remember that every year you age , your dog has aged about seven….lots can happen in that time.

12. Never say “too old”

• Two golden rules: “Motion is lotion for the joints” and “If you don’t use it, you’ll lose it.”

• I often hear from the family of senior dogs that they have stopped asking their companion to sit because it has become too difficult, or they have stopped going for a walk because it takes an hour to go around the block. If you stop doing regular activities with your senior dog, it may begin the slippery slope down to immobity. You would be better to ask for a sit on a stool so your friend doesn’t have to go all the way to the floor and back up, or ask him/her to go for more frequent and shorter walks. Movement begets movement, immobity begets immobility. A daily exercise and stretching routine is just as important now as it was when your dog was younger.

• If pain from osteoarthritis is a concern, seek veterinary advice and treatment. There are lots of choices these days from acupuncture and laser, to nutraceuticals such as glucosamine, to anti-arthritics and anti-inflammatories.

• Consider swimming, especially in a warm pool, or an underwater treadmill as a great way to provide low impact exercise for your aging friend. Water provides buoyancy and resistance, and if it is warm it promotes stretching of muscle tissue.

• Since your senior canine may have difficulty getting up and down, and may not have the balance and agility of a younger dog, providing safe footing at all times is very important. If you have slippery flooring at home consider carpeting, or removable interlocking rubber matting, or boots on all four paws to provide traction.

• Research has shown that the faster gaits of locomotion require more balance/proprioception, and that as we age and our balance becomes poor, we tend to move slower and with smaller steps leading to the common shuffling walk we often see in our elderly. To “exercise” your dog’s nervous system and help maintain functional balance/proprioception, ask him/her to walk quickly or even trot for short intervals when you go for that short stroll around the block.

• The eyes of senior dogs tend to take on a bluish tint. This is a sign of presbyopia which is the loss of elasticity of the lens, making near vision more difficult especially in dim light. In addition to a decrease in vision, a loss of hearing, especially of lower tones is part of the aging process. Because vision and hearing is not as “acute” in the senior canine, remember to keep areas well lighted and make visual cues obvious so as to avoid injury.

Dr. Glynis Newman, DVM, practices veterinary chiropractic in Victoria and sees many cases where dogs are injured at home, at the park or at sporting events. She is a passionate advocate of preventive health for dogs.